Tag Archives: Richmond Magazine

MY POLYANNA THOUGHTS ON THE ELBYS

The Elbys are Sunday and (what feels like) the whole town (but is most likely a minority of very food focused individuals) has gone GA-GA! The local Twitterverse and RVA social media have been consumed. I am no exception, having spent much time and thought on not only the award categories and the nominees themselves, but many hours on the more exciting aspects of dress! hair! make-up! This year, Richmond’s premiere restaurant industry event somehow feels different. A bit more exciting. More…defining.

Since 2011, but specifically in the last 18 months, our city-town (as I lovingly refer to it) has become very serious about food. Well, maybe not SO serious, but certainly people involved in food in Richmond, whether it be  restauranteurs, chefs and cooks,  coffee roasters, distillers, brewers, farmer’s market vendors, growers, food trucks, even those covering our food scene- all have been stepping up their game.

Sure, there have always been committed culinary folks, pioneers carving the way, whether or not RVA was ready for it. However, there is definitely a new movement afoot, Elbys founder and Richmond Magazine editor Susan Winiecki mentioned it taking shape when I interviewed her last year. Watching our chefs and eating establishments in national magazines on a now semi-regular basis is a sign. The influx of outsiders who wish to open food businesses here,  yet another. The number (hordes?) of  entrepreneurs opening groceries, eateries, bars, hospitality consulting firms, under-ground supper clubs and high-concept ventures-a clear guarantee to where we are headed.

All of this is wonderful news of course! Who doesn’t love a food town?

But with any local awards event, now matter how miniscule or insular, it’s inevitable that people feel slighted, egos grow or are shattered and cynics call phooey on the whole shebang.  Well, I’m writing this to say, we ain’t got time for sour grapes people! We are in this together-the many before us,  the plenty whom are presently busting hump unnoticed and those who are or will soon be leading the way. Richmond deserves the recent attention we’ve received.  We deserve it because we are growing together, pushing each other, and promoting our city as a whole, and not just individually.*

It’s important for the food community get together, to acknowledge, celebrate and inspire each other-awards or not.

I am overjoyed at the opportunity to recognize the efforts of those working toward not just our potential as a food destination, but as a city where visitors and locals alike can eat fantastic meals- from the high minded to the humble and feel welcome at Richmond’s collective table.

*True, there are those just out for themselves, we know who you are.

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DON’T MISS OFF BROAD APPETIT, HERE IS WHY!

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Do you remember last year’s event at Pasture with all the great chefs and wonderful regional food and VA wines and of course all of the money that was raised for Feed More? WELL, IT’S HAPPENING AGAIN! Tickets are on sale now and the line up features even more wonderful chefs from all over the country. I’m most excited about one chef in particular and I felt the need to explain why.

While last year’s chefs mostly hailed from the South, this year features culinary masters from Oregon, Colorado, DC, NYC and my personal favorite BROOKLYN! Rob Newton of Seersucker and his partner Kerry Diamond opened their Southern restaurant (Ok, ok, he’s from Arkansas) the very week I left Brooklyn in Carroll Gardens mere steps from my old apartment. I still have yet to eat there-BUT- I was able to partake of Chef Newton’s Southern delicacies at Big Apple BBQ last summer and his food was phenomenal! I believe there was sorghum laced fried chicken and gumbo and deviled eggs. I may have that wrong, as I was in a food fueled stupor of glory. I tell you, you need to put your appetite in front of this gent.
Those of you who attended the Virginia Wine Summit in Oct of 2012 may have sat in on the Uncommon Wine Pairings panel, where Rob was a featured panelist. And if you can believe this, all the way back in 2011 Seersucker was featured in our movie Pimento Cheese, Please as one of the many NYC spots singing the praises of Southern food. Now that is a Brooklyn/RVA connection that cannot be denied.

I’m really looking forward to having these chefs in Richmond. Some you may be familiar with, some I’m sure you are not, all of whom I enjoyed reading about for this post. Heck, I looked them all up so you don’t have to! Read on:

Adam Sappington of The Country Cat
Justin Brunson of Old Major in Denver.
Ruben Garcia of Think Food Group/Jose Andres/Gilt City/ Rogue 24 in DC.
Andre Hueston Mack of Mouton Noir of NYC

And we mustn’t forget our own Jason-mother-effin Ally! The hardest working man in RVA food! Jason has been hustling to put RVA on the map for years and I’d like to thank he and Richmond magazine and all of the sponsors for bringing this event to us again. See you there Richmond!!!

2013 ELBY AWARDS

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The Elbys, which is only in its second year, recognizes those striving for greatness in our restaurant community. The event is named for local chef Paul Elbling who came to Richmond from Alsace and set the bar for fine dining here decades ago.

Years later we are so fortunate to have a varied and vibrant food scene that is growing every day. Richmond Magazine came up with the Elby Awards to chronicle that growth.
I think the restaurant community is collectively grateful and
some folks have wondered how the event works and how they can contribute to make it better. I wanted to ask Susan Winiecki, the founder of the Elbys and editor-in-chief at Richmond Magazine about what she has learned the past two years and where she sees our restaurant community going.

How did the Elbys come to be?

SW By fall 2011, you literally feel the shift in the Richmond food scene. There was a sense of camaraderie within the chef community, our farmers markets had taken off, we were coming off an incredible Broad Appetit/Off Broad Appetit in June, young chefs were pushing themselves with special dinners, pop-ups, and food trucks, and plenty of new collaborations were going on. The micro brew scene and craft cocktail scene were growing, too. The time felt right to put together an event to celebrate and recognize what was going on. Richmond doesn’t have a restaurant association, so we thought there was a need to fill with this event.

What so far, have been the most challenging aspects in pulling off such an event?

SW Trying to keep the event affordable but at the same time deliver a memorable night of food, drink and a bit of visual impact is the goal. The VMFA helped us deliver that this year with its magnificent spaces. We want the public and entire restaurant staffs to attend. We offer a $50 discounted ticket for employees of nominated restaurants and a $65 ticket to the public. There have been some requests for a sit-down dinner/ceremony a la Golden Globes but the costs of doing that are far higher. This year, we had a cocktail party afterward with food prepared by the culinary training programs in the city, and I think the students and their teachers really brought it!

Where do you think Richmond’s food scene is headed?

SW A couple of years ago, Dana Cowin at Food and Wine magazine came up with a list of seven things that she feels define a food town. I think the list still is a good barometer. 1. Markets that make great ingredients accessible.2. Artisan stores dedicated to singular perfection: bread, espresso, chocolate, ice cream. 3. An exciting wine scene and interesting sommeliers. 4. Sophisticated cocktail programs and bar chefs. 5. A new generation of young chefs with fresh ideas .6. Destination restaurants. 7. Maverick chefs.
As far as No. 1, South of the James Market is the granddaddy. On No. 2, check out SubRosa,.Gearhart’s Chocolates, Belmont Butchery, Can Can for morning croissants, and the divine Gelati Celesti. The Lamplighter and Globehopper get my votes for talented community coffee houses. As for No. 4, we have some restaurants who have gifted souls in charge of their spirits programs, and beer programs are coming on strong,too. We have one restaurant, The Roosevelt, who chose to have a wine list with only Virginia wines. I think it’s safe to say we have room to grow with all, but especially No. 3, No. 6 and No. 7.

What have you learned since the first Elbys and what do you hope to do differently in the future?

SW We are still in this event’s toddler years. We are still tinkering with categories to reflect our food scene. This year we added culinary student of the year and excellence in service. I want to do a roundtable with some attendees from this year on how we can improve. We want to ask past Elby winners to contribute nominations next year, and we are considering a people’s choice category.
Right now, we receive nominations from 30 industry types who are not currently working as restaurant chefs/managers; food writers; food reviewers; and bloggers in the Richmond community. The four nominees in each category are each visited by judges (not affiliated with Richmond magazine and again not currently working as restaurant chefs) during January and February. Those judges ate and drank themselves through more than $4,000 worth of receipts as they visited and rated the nominees. We keep their identities secret, as they do with the RAMMYs in D.C.
It’s far, far from perfect, but we are trying to deliver an evening that people don’t want to miss and an evening that highlights all the nominees. We also want it to be an evening that gives back to the community, so making sure there are net proceeds for food-related charities is another goal.

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Thanks so much to Susan, the staff at Richmond magazine, all of the sponsors, the VMFA and fab hosts Brandon Fox and Jason Tesauro for a memorable evening!

What did you think of this year’s Elbys? Please feel free to leave a comment. Below are some amateur (iphone) pics that I took at the event.

Hearts of Glass in honor of the current Chihuly exhibit at the VMFA, in sparkling wine.

Hearts of Glass in honor of the current Chihuly exhibit at the VMFA, in sparkling wine.

Harry "the Hat" Kollatz Jr. busting a move to the 70/80s new wave tuneage.

Harry “the Hat” Kollatz Jr. busting a move to the 70/80s new wave tuneage.

Co-host Jason Tesauro- The Modern Gent

Co-host Jason Tesauro- The Modern Gent

Rising star nominee Jen Mindell of Avalon

Rising star nominee Jen Mindell of Avalon

Sponsor Steady Sounds provided the music

Sponsor Steady Sounds provided the music