Tag Archives: Acacia

MAGIC MEXICAN MOONSHINE

Danny McDermott’s Mezcal Sazerac at Acacia

Today is Cinco De Mayo, but instead of knocking back Tequila shots in the name of a holiday that is hardly celebrated in Mexico, why not celebrate with a Mexican art form, one centuries old and steeped in the lore and culture of its indigenous people.
I’m talking about mezcal!
Yes, here in the U.S. the spirit initially became famous for “the worm” (they are actually larvae) which was a telltale sign of a cheap product, not to mention a raging hangover. Forget the worm, today there are hundreds of mid-range to premium mezcals on the quickly growing market.
Mezcal is the smooth and smokey great-grandfather of tequila, made for centuries by the Zapotec and Miztec people using the sacred agave plant. Tequila is made specifically from the blue agave plant, but mezcal can be produced with many different varieties of agave. 
The agave plants (maguey) are grown in villages at different elevations giving each its own terrior (or shall we say tierra!). Mexican law protects the name mezcal from being applied to products made from anything except approved agave plants, much like wines in Europe have a geographical indication or appellation d’origine.

The similarities with wine are obvious but after researching mezcal’s history and production it seems it has much in common with another spirit rooted in rural communities with a rich history and culture, moonshine.

Del Maguey, is one importer of artisan mezcal. Founded by mezcal guru and obsessive, Ron Cooper, Del Maguey has Fair Trade agreements with 8 villages in the southern state of Oaxaca, where the most distinctive mezcal is found. All are still using traditional production methods. In these rural villages dotting the mountains and valleys, some without main roads or even telephone access, palenqueros farm the agave plants and mezcaleros or mezcal makers have passed down the rustic art of mezcal distillation for generations. 

Del Maguey family of mezcals (from mezcal.com)

Del Maguey family of mezcal from mezcal.com

Recipes are closely guarded and start with wild agave, sometimes with the addition of fruits, nuts, and grains either infused or added during distillation. Some recipes involve the ancient practice of ‘meat distillation’ where a skinless chicken breast is hung inside the top of the still for the vapors to pass through to balance out flavor with a savory element. These are called pechuga (Spanish for breast) and can fetch $200 a bottle. The spirit can be made from one type of agave, for instance a 100% Espadin agave or from blends of agave.
Most of Mezcal’s production is still very small scale due to the slow and primitive methods employed in the villages.

The agave plant itself is slow, producing fruit only after six to eight years, before dying. The fruit of the plant, the piña, is cooked for 2 or 3 days over wood fire, caramelizing sugars and creating that distinctive smoke, in pits lined with stone. They are then ground, usually by stone, mixed with water and left to naturally ferment before being distilled in copper or clay and then aged. Aging varies depending on the type of mezcal:

  • Joven (young, unaged)
  • Reposado (aged in oak 12 months) 
  • Añejo (aged 12-36 months) 
  • Extra añejo (aged beyond 36 months)
Danny McDermott, bar manager at Acacia is a big mezcal fan and carries Del Maguey and Los Amantes brands currently.
“Mezcal is the last truly artisan spirit” McDermott says. “Here in Richmond, occasionally people in the know will sometimes order it neat, but I use it as a mixer often, because I love it.”

McDermott uses Del Maguey’s entry level Vida for mixed cocktails (editor’s note: I love it straight! So silky!) as the pricier and complex mezcals they produce are better enjoyed like a fine bourbon, sipped and savored. In Mexico people sip it at room temperature with a sweet orange slice or more reverently, out of clay bowls.

So later tonight when you mosey up to the bar order a mezcal, look your companion in the eye, and say Stigibeau!  (pronounced stee-gee-bay-oo) a Native Zapotec word toasting to the health of each other, the earth and Mexico. But please sip, don’t shoot.

Mezcal Sazerac Variation (thanks to Danny McDermott)

2. oz Del Maguey Vida mezcal
.5 oz gomme syrup*
green chartreuse
Bittermen’s Xocolatl mole bitters

Rinse a rocks glass with green Chartreuse, fill with ice and set aside. In a mixing glass or tin, add the gomme syrup and mezcal. Fill about 3/4 full with ice and stir until well chilled. Dump the ice from the rocks glass, and strain the mixture therein. Garnish with orange twist and 5 drops Bittermen’s xocolatl mole bitters.

*gomme syrup is a rich simple syrup thickened with gomme arabic; in a pinch, a rich simple could be used (2:1 sugar:water)
2 oz. food grade gomme arabic
2 oz. water
8 oz. sugar
4 oz. water

Combine gomme arabic and water (a lot of stirring is required), and let sit for 24 hours (at room temperature). Combine sugar and water over heat, until combined. Add gomme syrup base (from step 1) and stir to combine. Skim off foam.

HEARD! #10 DANNY MCDERMOTT

I started Food Punk to create a space to celebrate food and music. Where else could I herald the magic of both Ramps and Pusha T? Cooking, like music, is an art. Both can be visceral, sensory experiences that transport, inspire and define us. I’ve often found that those who play with knives are also into ‘deep cuts’ of another nature. It is in this spirit that I bring you this series: HEARD! highlighting the music enthusiasts behind the line, the bar, the pass and the pen.

dannyserious

Danny McDermott is bar manager at Acacia
in Richmond, VA. His cocktail shake brings all the boys to the yard.

What was the first live music performance you attended?

The first show I ever went to was at the Drexel Student Union building in Philadelphia with my brother and his friends back in 1997/1998 featuring Ink and Dagger amongst other hardcore bands. I was 16/17 and it was my first experience with moshing and bloody noses…It was the show that started to lead me down the road of punk/straight edge/hardcore with Minor Threat, Earth Crisis, Fugazi, etc.

What was the most recent?

I’m pretty sure it was the New Kids on the Block reunion tour at the Super Dome in New Orleans, where Tami Chynn taught me how to “wind”.

What album/artist changed/defined/etc your life?

There have been multiple and its all space specific.
When I was living in DC and got involved in the anarcho-bike punk scene (anti-corporate globalization protests, black bloc stuff) it was all about political punk and agitprop..i.e. Fugazi, Q and not U, Against Me!, Propaghandi, etc. It was all sweaty punks, track bikes, and politics.. good times.

In New Orleans, it was bounce music that changed everything–especially because I met my boyfriend at a bounce party at St. Roch Tavern. From the Godfather of bounce Dj Jubilee (especially Do You Thang Girl) to Sissy Bounce. You should really check out Gitty Up feat. da Rumpshakers or Big Freedia (have you seen the video for Y’all Get Back Now? well you should!). It was all about rump shakin’, getting down on the floor and being free–something New Orleans does better than any other city.

Do you have a musical equivalent to a guilty pleasure?

Too many, from the boy bands of the 90s to J-Pop (Pizzicato Five, etc.) to crappy pop of today, sometimes–just like shitty TV—you just want to turn off your brain.


What album is your go to for when you wanna smash stuff and life is sticking it to you?

Gotta go back to Against Me! “Baby I’m an Anarchist”


What album is your go to for fist-pumping-this-is-the-best-
ever-happiness times?

Not so much fist-pumping, but The Flaming Lips always reminds me of the good days in NYC riding over the Manhattan Bridge from Bed-Stuy to Lower Manhattan, because It’s Summertime.


What is on your turntable at home right now?

This might be a shameless plug, but really the album on my turntable is my brother’s band Nymph If you like Sun Ra, or Arthur Doyle, or awesome music in general you’ll love them.

I also really like to sing–I don’t do it much anymore, but I’ve been singing for ages, from classical in Carnegie Hall to dressed in raunchy drag singing punk versions of You Are My Sunshine as the lead singer for the Chicken Missiles at the Red Hook Bait and Tackle (the bar where I got started) in Red Hook, Brooklyn.

RVA CHEFS ORGANIZE FOOD FOR A CURE

Mississippi Mule

Monday night the Food For The Cure dinner took place in the Fan to benefit the Leukemia and Lymphoma society. It was held at Heritage and a slew of really gifted RVA cooks, Joe Sparatta of Heritage, Lee Gregory of The Roosevelt, Dale Reitzer of Acacia Midtown, Tim Bereika of Secco, Owen Lane of The Magpie and Randall Doetzer of Julep’s and Mint got together to offer up their dishes for the cause. I spied Aaron Hoskins of the forthcoming Rogue Gentlemen helping out on the line. Heritage’s own Mattias Hagglund and Mr T. Leggett of The Roosevelt were tag teaming bevvies behind the bar.

Matador

Matador

I was lucky to be able partake in a few cocktails and just one dish before having to run but I did manage to squirrel into the kitchen to get a glimpse of some of what was to come. For detailed descriptions of these dishes head over to Richmond Magazine. Over 7,000.00 was reported to have been raised!

the night's menu

the night’s menu

Lee Gregory's dish

Lee Gregory’s dish

Randall Doetzer's dish

Randall Doetzer’s dish

This next is the only dish I had the immense pleasure of tasting. I described it thusly, “it was like custard, breakfast, pudding and a hug all at once”
Granted I had already consumed 2 Matadors and one Mississippi Mule at that point, but I don’t think the drinks had anything to do with the love that shone through that dish. Joe and Emilia and Mattias at Heritage, are kind and good people. The types that you’d hope would set up shop in your town. We are ever so lucky to have them.

Joe Sparatta's Bacon and Eggs

Joe Sparatta’s Bacon and Eggs

Tim Bereika of Secco

Tim Bereika of Secco


Marcail Moran Waskom and Kira Siddall helped organize the event.

Marcail Moran Waskom and Kira Siddall helped organize the event.